I guess you don't really consider the trip to have begun until you're buckled into your seat (with your tray table stowed and your seat back upright) and the engines rev up for a trip down the runway... but I've always considered the Marin Ferry Terminal a really cool structure, so it's here at the beginning of the trip.

Most of us know what a jet looks like, and those that need to know already know what I look like, so for me to stand in front of a jet seems a bit pointless. Still, the page looks a little drab without at least one picture, so... ;)

If you're willing to overlook the odd anachronism -- a bicycle here, a transistor radio there, logo-emblazoned clothing, and so on -- you can readily imagine that this is how people might have lived here for hundreds of years. This is a house along the road to Tonle Sap.

All manner of bottles are pressed into fish-sauce duty; here the empties are being dried prior to their being filled.

If there's one way to characterize the Cambodian people, it is as "entrepreneurs." This is not to say that every home is a tourist trap -- that's just not the case -- but there's a thriving economy. Not constrained by the idea that a store is three walls and a sheet of plate glass, it's hard to go more than a hundred feet an not find somebody seeling something. In this case, refreshments to passing locals.

Tonle Sap Lake is the largest lake in south-east Asia, and that doesn't take into account the fact that depending on the season, it changes size considerably. Being at the heart of Cambodia, it is also at the heart of Cambodian life, and there are many that call the lake (and tributaries) their home. Many of these homes float, and move with the shoreline through the seasons.

Hmmm... that looks familiar, but we're dashing by to "make the sunset" at another location, so looks like this glimpse is all we'll get... for now...

Once the sun crept closer to the western horizon, the sky put on a wonderful show, bathing Phnom Bakheng in a warm saffron glow. And later still, it offered this little visual treat. But once the sun is gone, it's a mass exodus back to the waiting busses, scooters, and bicycles at the foot of the hill.

One motif that is common to nearly all Angkor art -- regardless of the period in which it was built -- is that of the Apsara, mythological nymphs which sprung venus-like into existence in the Khmer creation story.

This incredibly picturesque temple was built in the late 12th century, and depicts an architectural and artistic style unique to its period. It's also a lot of fun to explore, with many nooks and hidey-holes and multiple terraces. One can only imagine what it looked like in its day...

Yup, this is one of those obligatory "yes, mom, I'll have somebody take my picture" pictures. I guess it's not so much for a mother to ask... ;)

One of the things that remains so amazing is the state in which much of these ruins are in. Bear in mind that the exteriors of nearly everything here is sandstone, which is relatively soft and subject to erosion. But somehow, the detail remains crisp and well-defined, as is shown in this lintel.

Here, in a part of the Terrace of Elephants, some exquisitely-preserved Apsaras bask in the late morning sun.

There are many countries that have been actively participating in the restoration of Angkor Wat: France and Japan seem to have contributed the most, with other countries, such as Germany and China also adding to process. By the way, not all the temples you see today are as they were found. Several had collapsed and were subsequently restored, and others have actually been completely disassembled and reassembled within the last century. Here, a building from Chao Say Tevoda is being given a new lease on life.

Another mistaken rarity was the odd Buddhist monk lingering amidst the desolate ruins... but in actuality, they are quite common nearly everywhere. They do add a wonderful splash of color, too.

The Angkor Wat area, in spite of being badly damaged by the ravages of time and the encroaching jungle, oddly owes its continued existence to the same jungle, which kept most plunderers, blunderers, and all manner of more destructive forces from leveling these pieces of world heritage. One need only imagine whether the Buddha statues in Afghanistan would have missed the Taliban's vandalism if they, too, had been shrouded in the thick green carpet.

One of the ways to see the complex is by hot-air baloon, a tethered contraption that rises to about 150 meters (about 500 feet) above the ground. The moat, wall, and inner complex of Angkor Wat are visible in the distance.

Palm Sugar comes both from from the fruit of the female tree, and the large finger-like blossom clusters of the male tree. Here our guide cuts away the fruit husk to reveal gelatinous fruit and a reservoir of slightly sweet juice. The bamboo canister in the foreground holds the extract from the male flowers. Both will be reduced over fire.

The finished products, inch-diameter disks, are stacked in palm-leaf tubes. You'll see them set out for sale on tables along the road throughout the countryside.

I don't know how many people can still read this, but after a millenium, this sanskrit is still legible. (I guess you could call that "archive quality"... ;)

It seems like every square inch of these buildings is engraved either with great mythological scenes, or exquisite patterns.

A few kilometers to the south of Eastern Mebon is Pre Rup, which as I said, was essentially a crematorium.

This statue in one of the side entrances of Angkor Wat's outer perimeters recently had its head restored.

The first thing you notice about almost all of the stairs here is that they are very steep -- a 6-inch tread with as much as an 18 inch rise, so when you climb stairs here, you really climb!

Here we look at the central cupola of Angkor Wat, looking up from beneath the cupola at north-west corner of the courtyard. The sun is getting low in the sky, so the lighting is quite dramatic.

Here's just another view of the slope pilgrims must ascend (and later descend) when visiting the summit...

The first thing you'll encounter when visiting any site here is the knot children relentlessly selling postcards (10 for a dollar is the going rate, but can be negotiated down) and pirated copies of tour books (like Lonely Planet) for a few dollars. As cute as the urchins are, I'm faced with an ethical dilemma of supporting piracy vs. doing the compassionate thing. My recommendation: don't buy, give them school supplies, like paper and pencils.

The supporters of the naga (snake) figure that flanks this bridge suffered a similar fate. It wasn't clear whether this was hindu vandalism or merely a change in the religion over the centuries, but one thing is clear: hundreds, possibly thousands, of Buddha depictions are now gone.

Take a bit of rebar, shape and temper it, and you've got a chisel good enough for the restoration efforts here...

Down a short path through jungle that has found its way into the site, and you come to this gate.

If you venture off the main path that leads east/west down the middle of the site, you find this shrine hidden in a small alcove. Faithful come here to pray.

The inner sandstone has fallen away, revealing the laterite "skeleton" that makes up the foundation and structural composition of most buildings in Angkor Wat.

Like Ta Prohm, this site is fairly close to its rediscovered state... some restoration has taken place, but here too some trees have become so invasive that it's next to impossible to remove... and even if you could, some of the drama and charm would be gone.

This ruin is where the king's sacred sword was kept, and the structure here is the building in which it was stored.

A bit to the east, one of two small libraries sits on either side of the path to the eastern gate.

Scars on the stone from tanks passing through this gate are visible. Nearby, sections of wall are riddled with bullet holes.

...all but one, that is. Interestingly, one single carving remains, either overlooked or spared by the vandals of history.

A large central pool, shown here, and four satellite pits, produced purified holy water used in healing rituals.

Restoration is afoot at the small site of Ta Som found just a little bit farther down the grand circuit.

The south-eastern panel of Angkor Wat depicts punishments for wrong doers, including the sin of adultery (for both men and women, interestingly.) The unfaithful can expect to be tied to and embrace a jagged-spiked tree for all eternity for their transgression. Here's one specimen of such a tree....

Back in Siem Reap, we pass by an open market bustling with activity.

Several kilometers east of Siem Reap are a handful of structures that represent the predecessors to Angkor Wat. One of them, Lolei, is shown here. Though being restored, it is little more than a handful of cupolas.

It's also situated in the middle of a village, so you can sit atop the summit and watch life go by all around you. So in a way, it's the perfect way to cap off a stay at Angkor Wat.

The tourists seldom delve any deeper than the shops facing the street, but this market fills the entire block. While it caters mainly to the locals, it's got literally everything.

Well, after several hours delay, it's finally time to board, and say "Good Bye" to Siem Reap and the Angkor Wat complex. Though the place has been overrun with tourists, I have to say that it's been fun.

The diversion happened to be during the historic agreement between China and Taiwan, where "direct" flights were allowed. Previously, travelers going from one place to the other had to fly to a third desitantion (typically Hong Kong,) deplane, and get on another flight, usually adding 3-4 hours to a trip that's typically only 100 miles. Now, for a window between January 29 and February 20, "direct" flights are allowed between the mainland and the island, provided that the plane flies through Hong Kong or Macau airspace. Hmmm... but we took off from Macau airspace. Why the jog over Hong Kong? I guess the pilot was being extra careful with this unscheduled flight.